PAUSE @ Lake Bled

Cooped up inside our homes, unable to step out, a holiday seems like a distant dream at the moment. The wanderlust in our hearts pines for green highlands, sun-sprinkled beaches, placid lakes and dense forests. A small ray of mad hope tells us that this agony will soon be over. Once again, the sun will shine as the dark clouds of suffering recede. When that happens we can all hope to bring our worlds closer again but until then all we have are some old pictures and some fond memories.

In the late winter of 2017, my wife and I embarked upon a somewhat unusual honeymoon trip. Unusual in the choice of place, we opted for south central Europe over the typical Paris or Switzerland. And instead of fancy hotel rooms we booked ourselves into local apartments in residential neighborhoods. Over two weeks we discovered a world of royal cities, enchanting waterfalls, temperate woods and serene lakes as we travelled through the erstwhile Austro-Hungarian empire well into the Balkan region. Our final stop in this most exotic itinerary was the beautiful town of Bled in the Julian Alps of Slovenia.

Nestled between mountains, this fairytale town can get really busy during the touristy summer months but if you choose a relatively lean period like us you will be able to appreciate the quiet charm of Slovenian country life. Of course you couldn’t swim in the lake and such but there’s a spa or two around here to make up for that. You can go for a morning run around the lake or a leisurely stroll in the evening will do just as well. There are cafes and shops lining the north-eastern shore where you can shop for souvenirs or relish the famous Bled cream cake or Kremsnita. Take a day trip to lake Bohinj, just 30 km outside Bled or go skiing on the pistes of Vogel. Take a hike up the gurgling Vintgar gorge or a self-guided tour of a medieval castle. There’s enough to fill up your days for a whole week in my opinion and the nights are enjoyed best sipping on some home-made Blueberry schnapps next to a small fireplace.

Romantic or Cheesy, this life sized heart frame on the shores of Lake Bled is a photo-op you don’t want to pass up or your gf/ wife won’t let you at any rate. There’s plenty of wire to hang them lovelocks too if you’re into THAT kind of LOVE….
The 220 steps that climb all the way up to the castle can be a daunting task for some. But it can also be fun if you like a bit of exercise like us. The steps are well laid out and well-maintained.
In not more than 15 minutes, you find yourself in the courtyard of the Blejski Grad or Bled castle as it is popularly known. The oldest castle in Slovenia, Blejski is a popular attraction in the region. It houses a museum of sorts alongside a restaurant, a giftshop, a chapel and a wine cellar. Even though the castle itself is not as exuberant, the views from up here make it worth while.
On a clear sunny day this view would be very different. The moisture trapped in the valley makes for misty conditions this time of the year. But you can’t miss the silhouette of the Bled island and it’s bell tower in spite of the reduced visibility.
The wine cellar in the castle is really just a tourist trap if you ask me. I don’t know if the wine sold here is any special. Not to mention it comes at a souvenir price. Don’t mind the free photo-ops though.
A bird’s eye view of lake Bohinj from atop the Gondola station at Vogel ski resort. The wind here is phenomenal and in the March cold you’d have to be brave to stay on for more than a few minutes. The largest glacial lake in the region, Bohinj is a popular day trip from Bled.
Vogel is a popular ski resort in the region. Perched on top of mount Vogel in the Triglav National park it is one of the largest in Slovenia. A gondola takes you up from lake Bohinj to a height of about 1500m. There is a panoramic restaurant and many sun decks here. So, even if you are not up for skiing as such you can just enjoy the sparkling white snow from the comfort of your patio chair.
The cheesiest mushroom risotto and a Chicken Burger larger than Big Mac. Wash it down with some chilled Heineken. And keep on those reflectors at all times.
Just another quaint village along the Slovenian country roads. The grey-black sloping rooftops are characteristic of buildings here. Sparsely populated and hauntingly beautiful.
A truly fairytale experience in Bled can be a self rowed boat ride with your partner to the Bled island in the middle of the lake, that is of course if you know how to row.
If not, you can always hop on a country boat full of Chinese tourists for an 8 EUR round trip.
Locals believe that a groom must carry his bride up these steps to the Bled island chapel in order to ensure a happy and successful marriage. I told Sonam she’d have to lose like 20 pounds if she wanted our marriage to be a runaway success. In the end we settled for a customary photograph.
The 52 m high bell tower comes with an extra fee. One can climb up to the top to see the large bells which strike every 15 minutes. On the way up you will see different kinds of time telling apparatus used over the centuries. The views from the top are marred by the dense grille frame against the windows if you ask me. But climb up nevertheless; for some exercise if nothing else.
Legend has it that the lady (some old medieval widow) of the lake grants your wishes if you ring this bell on the roof of the church. The rope connecting the gong descends into the main chapel and a good tug does the trick. For no extra cost, this is a superstition I recommend whole-heartedly.
When you’re not rowing a boat or ringing the church bell or exploring the castle, take a moment to admire the many birds of the lake. They are almost all over the lake and have enough colors between them to keep an amateur ornithologist busy for the better part of his day.
Even in late winter the water current in Vintgar is impressive and the gushing crystal clear water makes enough noise to drown out your thoughts. Unfortunately, we couldn’t venture quite far as parts of the wooden walkway were under repair.
Sometimes I wish I could close my eyes real hard and when I open them again all the madness and all the suffering would be gone forever and a misty lake Bled and an empty country boat are all I would have in front of me. Press PAUSE.