La Tomatina of Bunol to El Encierro (running of the bulls) of Pamplona, there is no dearth of popular cultural references to Spain in films or TV. Sun, wine and football are the first images that flash through your mind when someone spells Espana. What we don’t get to see in the films, however, is the rich history, the warm people or the life in the streets. When Sonam and I were packing our bags in September of 2018, we were looking forward to all of that and more.
A 10 hr flight later, when we landed at Madrid Barajas International, the warm and dry air outside the terminal felt familiar yet distinct. Much like Delhi, Madrid is land locked and mostly flat, having a temperate climate with longer than usual European summers. In late September, days are still warm and sunny. So, don’t forget to bring enough sun block.
We hopped on the suburban Cercanias (C1) from T4 and changing once at Nuevo Ministerios arrived at Sol in around 40 minutes. For all practical purposes Puerta del Sol is the city centre of Madrid and serves as the starting point for all excursions around the royal city. Naturally, we had booked our Airbnb as close as possible. Within 5 minutes we were in Calle Bordadores, just opposite the famous chocolateria- San Gines. Our very first impression of Sol was that of a vibrant and lively plaza bustling with activity, people both young and old, street performers, tourists and locals. It all looked inviting but we were exhausted after the long flight and just wanted to get to a comfortable bed.
I cannot think of a better way to start your tour around Madrid than a quick bite at the most chic yet authentic food market in town. Mercado de San Miguel was a short walk away and we hopped in as early as 9 the next morning. After scanning all the bright and colorful stalls of fresh fruit, Iberian ham, seafood, pastries and a myriad other tapas, we settled on something simple- freshly squeezed juice and equally fresh bread. This wrought-iron and glass structure is more than a 100 years old and after renovation back in 2003, it’s become a trendy hotspot for tourists and locals alike given its central location.
Less than 3 min away from Mercado is one of the oldest and largest public squares of Madrid. It has nine different entry gates and is surrounded by 3 storey high buildings on all sides. Over the centuries it has changed form and names several times besides witnessing 3 major fires. The statue of Philip III in the centre makes for great photo ops and the periphery is dotted with cafes and stores aimed at tourists. Admire the architecture and wonder what it would be like to have a window or balcony overlooking the square.
A 10 min walk from the Plaza are the official quarters of the Spanish royalty. Palacio Real is spread over 135,000 square metres and has more than 3000 rooms. You can take an inside tour to explore the different parlors, saloons and chambers if you have the time. But if like us you feel you have seen way too many palace museums by now, just stroll around the exterior walls from Plaza de Armeria to Sabatini Gardens. There is enough to look around and it’s completely free. The multi-style palace has some interesting history. It was built on the site of a Moorish Alcazar from the 9th century (makes you wonder at the reach of the African Islamic rulers into the Iberian peninsula) and was rebuilt after the fire of 1734. Several eras of renovation have seen Italian, French, Victorian and Baroque styles being adopted to add different sections of the palace as it stands today.
If you begin to feel overwhelmed with royalty and history, turn around and head back towards Gran Via till you hit the iconic Schweppes building. You have now left behind the uptight world of etiquette and formality, so let your hair down and unleash that shopping bug cos you are on the trendiest commercial street in Madrid. Explore the high end fashion, the boutiques, the theatres and hotels. Indulge in some people watching but keep your senses about you at all times. Spanish cities are notorious for their pick pockets and snatchers and while you are ogling at that gorgeous dress in the display window, someone could be eyeing your sling pouch. I don’t mean to put the city down in any way but this happens and there is nothing wrong with being mindful. When you hit the other iconic Metropolis building on Calle de Alcala, you’ll know you have come to the end of the street. Good things seldom last long.
As the afternoon sun gets higher and stronger, look for some shade in the city’s largest green neighborhood of El Retiro. Formerly a royal retreat, it became a public park in late 19th century. It has many sculptures, galleries, gardens, monuments and water bodies that will easily occupy your entire afternoon. The glass house or Palacio del Cristal and the central lake are not to be missed. The park is free to enter and is used by locals and tourists alike. In my opinion, it’s a great place to observe the recreational styles of ordinary Spaniards and to experience a relaxed and authentic Madrilenian way of life.
Call it a day if you are exhausted or head to a neighborhood bar to unwind. If you are a night creature, there’s plenty of nightlife too.
There is no such thing as a Spanish breakfast. Most Spaniards start their day on a coffee and some bread. But if you are here for just a few days, I recommend a treat of Churros as a day-starter. It’s filling, ready to go and simply yum. Luckily for us, one of the most reputed Chocolaterias in town was just across from our Airbnb and we decided to gorge on this amazing specialty before starting our city tour on the second day.
As far as city centre goes, almost every place can be accessed on foot easily. Most notable attractions are within a 3 km radius and the most you will walk one way, say from Lago to Retiro is not more than 5 km. If you choose to stay near the centre, you can manage your daily excursions on foot alone and that’s precisely what we did. Of course there were the occasional rides on Cercanias from the airport to city or to the railway station and those were pretty comfortable too. After a leisurely stroll in Sabatini gardens on the northern flank of the palace, you might choose to walk towards Plaza de Espana which is another important public space in Madrid. Come face to face with a larger than life Don Quixote and Sanchez in bronze here. Walk a little further and witness an ancient Egyptian temple from the Nile basin overlooking the city of Madrid. All the walking around can make you hungry very quickly and if it does, there are a few cafes and restaurants just across from Temple of Debod but most open late in the day but a simple serving of Spanish Tortilla or patatas bravas can be found any time.
If you are an art lover, head out to the national museum or Museo nacional del Prado. If you would rather not pay for it, come back later at 6 in the evening. Free entrance between 6 and 8 on weekdays is a great way to explore the museum bit by bit. If you are spending a few days in Madrid and don’t mind queuing up for the free entrance, make use of this great opportunity. Alternatively, go to Reina Sofia if you are a Picasso or Dali fan between 7 and 9pm, also for free.
Some of the other sights that might interest you include the lookout point on Pricipe Pio hill or the Casa Campo park. These are in the same area and can be accessed on foot. It is important that you don’t crowd your day with too many attractions and plan your walking tour in a circuitous fashion to optimize your time and energy. As much as we wanted to explore more of Madrid, we were getting closer to our time of departure for the next destination. So we came back to Sol to pick up our bags and boarded the Cercanias once again to get to Chamartin- the other big railway station of Madrid.
Almost like an accompaniment or side, Lisbon often ends up being paired with Madrid or Barcelona in tourist itineraries. Unlike Spain, the westernmost country of continental Europe has very few popular film references. Bollywood for one, has not ventured thus far yet. So naturally, most people from our part of the world think of including Lisbon only as a secondary destination when time and budget permit. But you’ll find that truth is often surprising. Lisbon has a great vibe of a historic city with many trendy neighborhoods. The architecture is intriguing, the food is inviting and the people are warm and helpful.
As we got on our overnight sleeper train from Madrid to Lisbon, we found out that there was separation of sexes. So we were going to spend the entire journey in separate cabins with total strangers. Like this was not enough when we got to the dining car we learned that a couple of stale looking tapas, mostly seafood based and some port wine were the only items on the menu that night. We were exhausted and starving at this point and nothing could salvage this journey. The only good thing that happened to us that night was good conversation, some peanuts to munch and the port wine we bought in the pantry, all of it courtesy a kind stranger. Lisbon (cos I don’t remember her actual name) loaned us some cash to buy the port wine and peanuts as they wouldn’t accept card and we had run out of euros. Over the wine we got talking and she shared many interesting stories about her life in that city and elsewhere, gave us some recommendations too. Next morning she even offered to drop us off at our Airbnb in her son’s car but we didn’t want to take advantage of her hospitality and said our goodbyes at Santa Apolina at half past seven in the morning.
Naturally, we started our first day in Lisbon from Praca do Comercio. From our Airbnb near Roma it took us 11 minutes or 7 stops on the metro. The moment we got off the subway I could smell the sea-breeze instantly. We stepped out in the lively street and saw a woman dressed in a white wedding dress sitting right in the middle. Her face was also painted white and she had a white floppy cap on. The whole ensemble looked creepy to say the least. If anyone knows what it’s meant to be, please leave it in the comments.
While walking around the plaza for some time and admiring the interesting Pombaline architecture of the post earthquake era, you might begin to wonder what it truly represents. The rising wealth of imperialist Portugal that came from African and Asian colonies like our own was channeled through this complex right here. The buildings surrounding the plaza housed customs and tariff offices which kept records of the spices and gold unloaded from ships coming in through the Tagus after long and frightful voyages on distant seas.
While wandering around if your tummy begins to rumble, take a break from the scorching sun in a trendy food market that brings the widest variety of traditional and contemporary Portuguese delicacies from celebrated chefs under a single tin roof. The Time Out food market is about a 10 min walk from the Praca in the direction of Cais do Sodre. You won’t miss the building once you are on the 24 July street. The ambience is lively and it could take a while to find the right table. Just look for something close to the kiosk you would like to order from. We had a hearty meal of fish and a pasta/ noodle dish. I’m not big on seafood so many options were beyond my reach but there’s something for everyone. Trust me, you don’t want to miss this one.
As you step out of the food market, turn right towards Rua Cor de Rosa or the Pink street as it is popularly known. Hop in the famous erotic themed bar if you will. If not, carry on up the road to Bairro Alto. You can spend the rest of the evening walking up and down the alternating stairs and ramps, or admiring the colorful graffiti, navigating the orthogonal blocks or taking in the symmetry of Pombaline facades of this historical Alto neighborhood which can go from quiet during the day to maddening loud at night once the multitude of bars come alive. You can also catch panoramic views of the city from the viewing balcony at Mirador de Santa Catarina. Unfortunately for us, the balcony was under renovation in Sep 2018 and we had to settle for a beer with no views at the little bar next to the balcony.
Our streak of bad luck continued when after waiting in queue for a ride on the Santa Justa elevator for over an hour we had to abandon our posts and return for the day. It can get really crowded in the evenings as people gather for that perfect sunset view from the observation deck. I guess this was the travel God’s way of telling us to come back to this most interesting city.
Next day, we continued our tour of greater Lisbon in the westernmost municipalities of Cascais and Sintra. Given that we had just one day marked out for seaside exploration, we decide to start in Cascais and continue to Sintra thereafter. If you have more time, I would recommend doing this over 2 days but if you are pressed for time like us, start early and hop on the Cascais line that runs all along the Tagus till the river merges with the Atlantic.
Cascais is a popular beach resort in Portugal and tourists, both local foreign flock to its fine sand beaches and glitzy casinos every year. It is one the richest municipalities in the country and you can tell that immediately upon arrival. The houses are bigger and swankier, the streets are wider and the cars are fancier. As you get in from the station, colorful mosaics on cobbled streets welcome you to the historical centre. Walk a little further and a vista of the famous Queen’s beach opens up before you. Stick to the marine drive and you will soon come upon the shiny marina.
The main place of interest on a Cascais day trip however, is Boca do Inferno. You can hop on a bus from the station or rent a bike or walk leisurely along the marine drive to get here. The violent crashing Atlantic waves against the arching cliff make for a dramatic view during the winter storms, not so much in summers. But come anyway and enjoy a snack at the viewing platform which is free to access.
When you are done exploring Cascais, come back into the city and board a bus to Cabo da Roca from the main bus terminal. A 40 minute ride later you will be dropped off at the westernmost edge of continental Europe. A plaque with the exact coordinates is placed under a cross announcing this fact. If the selfie crazy crowds begin to bother you , start walking along the railing till the end where there is nothing between you and the wide Atlantic anymore. Nothing but a sheer 100 m drop. Let the wind overpower your being and your thoughts drift away on it but do watch your step at all times. When you have had your fill of the cool sea breeze hop back on the circular Scottrub bus and continue to Pena palace.
Sintra is a destination in its own right and there’s enough to explore over 2 days. But if you don’t have as much time, head straight to the Pena palace. It’s the highest point in the Sintra hills now that the Alta Cruz has been displaced. The Romanticist style in which the palace has been built is somewhat reminiscent of the Disney castle. The rich use of colors like blue, yellow and red set it apart from the myriad monochrome castles and palaces you’ll see across Europe. Even if you are not into the history, the terrace under the clock tower is a great place to enjoy unspoiled views of the Sintra forest. I would recommend a good 2 hours to go around the palace and the park, exploring the lifestyle of the Potuguese royalty that used this palace as a summer residence.
If you manage to do as many things as we did in that single day, by now you’ll be tired to the bone and it would be best to catch the next train back to Lisbon. If you are spending the night in town, head back to the centre and enjoy a nice drink before curling in.
Lisbon has so much more to offer that you will need enough rest to start again the next day. If possible, plan 3-5 days for the entire region and make sure to block a whole day for Belem. A civil parish located in the western part of the district it can be accessed using the same Cascais line. The area commemorates the sea-faring past of the Portuguese with monuments like the Belem tower, the Discoveries monument and the Jeronimos monastery, all of them within walking distance of each other.
Built in the 16th century, Torre de Belem played a vital role in protecting the mouth of the Tagus river from incursions and to provide a safe passage to the incoming ships loaded with riches.
The monument of discoveries is simply commemorative and not as old. You can pay entrance to go up to the observation deck but you might want to bring extra sun block. I reckon you can spend 1-2 hrs going around the Belem waterfront, exploring these monuments from the outside. If you choose to take inside tours, it could take upto 4. It is natural to feel hungry at some point. Look no further than Pasteis de Belem next door to the monastery.
If you would like to explore some more, why not hop on a Cacilhas ferry to Almada on the southern bank of the Tagus. Few tourists make it to this side of the river and you’ll have ample time and opportunity to observe ordinary local life in the biggest metropolitan area of Portugal. Calcihas has some amazing fresh fish if you are into it. You can walk or ride on a bus further up to Almada to visit the Christ the King monument. And of course, while you are here, take some great photos of the 25 de Abril bridge. If none of that appeals to you just have some cake with your beer and sink in a comfy chair as the sun goes down.
Both Madrid and Lisbon have a lot more to see and do and we hope to go back again soon. But while you prepare for your Iberian voyage, some of these tips might be useful.
- There is a direct flight from New Delhi to Madrid, three times a week. If you book well in advance, you could get a bargain too.
- Late September is shoulder season but some attractions can still get crowded.
- Bring ample sun block.
- Cercanias or the Madrid subway is a great way to travel between the airport and the city as well as around the city.
- You can buy a Vodafone tourist SIM for EUR 20. It works across most of EU and comes with ample data for your search and social media needs.
- Burger King in Spain has the best milk shakes ever. Unfortunately, they don’t have any vegetarian meals, neither do any other fast food chains.
- You can book your trains on www.renfe.com using any international card.
- Viva Viagem card is a great way to access public transport in Lisbon.
- Use Scottrub day pass for full day access to all of their bus routes across Sintra and Cascais. This also includes your return train fare from Lisbon.
To continue on our journey across the Iberian peninsula, come back to check out my next entry Un viaje Andaluz!
HOBOinkaps 